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Orleans has a rich history with the influence of
the French, who were supposedly some of the earliest
settlers along the southern shore of the Mississippi
River. The river bends as if it were creating a
crescent curvature, therefore one will hear New
Orleans referred to as “The Crescent City.”
The French were the early settlers, and hence they
laid a foundation in what is known today as the
French Quarter. The French Quarter is a fascinating
reminder of the city’s history. In landmarks
such as the historic St. Louis Cathedral, located
in the heart of the French Quarter and bordered
by Jackson Square, you will find artists as well
as peddlers of whatever you may desire. Probably
no other city has been influenced by as many diverse
ethnic groups as has New Orleans. There are the
Spanish, Italian, Irish and many other groups, creating
the Creole, which is unique to New Orleans.
One of the deepest pleasures of the Big Easy is
that it is old, really old. It is a town that one
will return to and find a store or restaurant that
has been in the same place for 150 years. You also
will see much that is new along the Riverwalk adjacent
to the Morial Convention Center with a gentle breeze
frequently present as you stroll the walkway along
the Mississippi River.
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Lions,
Tigers, White Alligators, Oh My!
Audubon Zoo is one of the most highly
regarded in the nation. Photo courtesy
of NewOrleansOnline.com |
The city has a reputation for “anything goes,”
and if you have been to a Mardi Gras, you will know
what is meant by such a statement. You will see things
at the many festivals that are unheard of in any other
city. But there are sights for the whole family, from
children to us in the Medicare years of our lives.
The
Audubon Zoo underwent a total
renovation that transformed it into one of the best
in the country. The setting is one of subtropical
plants, waterfalls and lagoons along with some 1,800
animals who live in their natural habitat. You can
reach the zoo by streetcar, which is another unique
feature of the city. By the way, the city has recently
re-established the Canal Street cars, which had been
absent for some time. Another attraction for the family
is the Audubon
Aquarium of the Americas, which
displays a million-gallon tank. This attraction is
equally entertaining for adults as well as children.
It is an easy walk from the French Quarter or the
convention center. The many exhibit areas provide
a veritable ocean of aquatic life and probably the
only white alligator in captivity. Within the aquarium,
the IMAX theater shows two to three films daily. If
you are looking for something more for the kids, there
is City Park nestled in the Esplanade area, which
features a “Toyland” and a restored merry-go-round
that is a real beauty to be admired by all. There
also are paddleboat rides available since several
lakes are within the confines of the park.
Constructed in 1795, the Cabildo was the seat of the
Spanish government in New Orleans. It is the site
of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase, which allowed
the United States to gain all of the land west of
the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean. The museum
traces the history of Louisiana from exploration through
reconstruction from varied perspectives. Topics include
antebellum music, mourning and burial customs and
the changing roles of women in the South. There are
many museums with rather intriguing treasures such
as the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum, Madame
John’s Legacy, which survived the fire of 1794
and is a rare example of Creole architecture. There
are many other museums to suit the taste of multiple
generations. If antebellum homes are of interest to
you, stroll the Garden District, which may not have
significant historic buildings but has a beauty of
its own amid lush foliage and gorgeous homes. Magazine
Street is only a few blocks away from the Garden District.
Here you will find restaurants, antique shops and
curios of various types.
One of the most important and fascinating places you
do not want to miss is the National D-Day Museum.
Opened on June 6, 2000, it is the creation of best-selling
historian and author Steven Ambrose. Mr. Ambrose is
the biographer of President Dwight D. Eisenhower.
Mr. Ambrose met President Eisenhower in the late 1950s.
Eisenhower is said to have told Mr. Ambrose that if
it were not for the “Higgins” boat, designed
and manufactured in New Orleans, the outcome of WWII
may have been changed. The boat allowed the transport
of troops to the beachheads from the troop-carrying
ships for the D-Day attack and many other beachfront
landings during WWII. It is said that Andrew Higgins,
who initially was a small-boat builder, worked with
several draftsmen to whom he gave the job of solving
the landing boat project. After hours of seclusion,
they reported that they were unable to create a workable
design for the project. Mr. Higgins then took a cigar
box and cut the end so that it would flip open and
could be closed. Armed with this blueprint, the draftsmen
created the mechanics, and the Higgins boat was created.
It is said that Higgins Industries employed more than
15,000 workers at the peak of its operation. The boats
were said to be tested in the bayous of the New Orleans
City Park. There are many stories of those soldiers
who landed on the shores and lived to recount their
experiences.
There are several other museums of note. The Ogden
Museum of Southern Art is considered by some as the
premier collection of southern art in the United States.
If you want nightlife or you wish to try your luck
at the gaming tables, Harrah’s Casino is settled
in the midst of the Annual Meeting area. Harrah’s
offers entertainment as well as many ways to stimulate
your tastes for games of chance. Who knows, you may
be the one to “break the bank.”
There will be many places that you will find music
like no other in the country, from jazz to Cajun.
Check out the local scene, and see who is playing
where.
There are many other sights and sounds to interest
visitors of all ages. Lake Pontchartrain tours, New
Orleans cemeteries, where most graves are above ground
due to the fact that parts of the city are “under
water,” provide a clue to the history and longevity
of New Orleans. There are swamp tours, riverboat tours,
plantation tours and many historic churches to please
the tastes of all comers. Music and food are the heart
of the city with many well-known entertainers such
as the Neville family, Dr. John and the Marsalis family,
who are known the world over.
Food is, of course, one of the real pleasures of any
visit to New Orleans.
There are foods found in New Orleans that cannot be
replicated in any other city in the world. There are
at least 50 eating places within a radius of a quarter
mile of the convention center. Others are short cab
rides from the downtown area.
The city is known for Creole and Cajun food. A few
words that may give insight into the reason why the
food is unique: The area is blessed with superb seafood,
meaning a wealth of fresh fish from local waters and,
of course, the so-called big four: oysters, shrimp,
crab and crawfish. Creole and Cajun foods are rich
in seasonings that create an intensity of flavor not
seen in good old American food. One of the common
characteristics of New Orleans food is that much of
it begins with: “First you make a roux.”
Roux is a blend of flour, oil, butter or other fat
cooked to various shades of brown. It is the active
ingredient in dishes ranging from gumbo to oysters
Rockefeller. I am told by some local “experts”
that the roux is becoming much lighter, probably due
to the recommendations from health care givers.
Traditionally certain foods were not recommended at
certain seasons of the year. Due to the development
of “seafood farms,” though, much of the
seafood is available and retains quality on a year-round
basis. The following are the traditional seasons:
Crabs, soft shell and otherwise — April
through October
Crawfish — Christmas through the fourth
of July
Oysters — Good year round
Shrimp — Only poor month is March
Speckled trout — October through January
Tuna — May through September
Pompano — July through October.
As stated previously, most seafood is of excellent
quality year-round due to the development of fish
farms. No restaurant in New Orleans will ever serve
seafood that is not fresh, but it is helpful if
you inquire if the food was local or shipped frozen,
which will be a rarity.
Always check for reservations, and the earlier the
better. Some restaurants do not accept reservations
and are on a come-first basis.
It also is fortunate for our group that October
is probably the best month to visit New Orleans
since the weather is usually great, especially for
patio dining, and food supplies are at their best.
Here is some information regarding specific eateries.
The following are among the more well known and
will be familiar to many:
Commander’s
Palace — the “queen
of desserts” is the bread pudding soufflé
that you should order when placing your entree.
Creole cuisine that is consistently excellent.
Arnaud’s
— Creole and the best remoulade sauce in
the city. Also an interesting museum of Mardi
Gras gowns and memories of past parties.
Antoine’s
— Classic Creole French, known for Oysters
Rockefeller creations.
Galatoire’s
— Run by the same family since 1905. Get
seafood here. A local favorite, as many of the
waiters have been there for generations. An unusual
and probably one of the best dining experiences
in the United States!
Emeril’s
— The “Bam Man.” A popular local
and tourist spot. Has created multiple dishes
such as “lobster cheesecake” and multiple
oyster dishes.
Delmonicos
— An Emeril creation with an interesting
tasting menu. Give it a try. It is also expensive,
but you are on a business trip and need to have
stimulating foods to think and create safer anesthesia
care!
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For
more than 160 years, Antoine's Restaurant
has served the best French-Creole food in
the world. Photo courtesy of NewOrleansOnline.com |
Other excellent choices for a New Orleans experience
can be found in the following eating places:
Café
Degas — A French
bistro that does not emphasize fried food. An
informal atmosphere known for salads and quiches.
Dickie
Brennan’s Steakhouse
— Steaks and chops, as good as it gets.
Drago’s
— Located in Metairie, a suburb only about
15-20 minutes from downtown New Orleans. You must
inhale the charbroiled oysters that are not to
be found at any other place in the United States.
Excellent lobster and seafood of all types.
Christian’s
— Yes, just as the name indicates, it was
a former church. The stained glass windows have
been preserved, and the old altar is the waiter’s
station. Many good seafood daily specials.
Cuvee
— Described as contemporary Creole, it is
one of the newer restaurants that has been getting
rave reviews from locals, who are the toughest
critics. Pan-seared duck is one of their dishes,
which you may not find in many New Orleans eating
spots.
Restaurant
August — French,
a taste of elegance (Frette linens and chandeliers,
etc.), with a nouvelle twist on what is classic
New Orleans cuisine. The food is fresh and has
been described by some as “too pretty to
eat”; however, I have never had that problem.
Ask for the daily specials, and do not hesitate
to request a change if you are a vegetarian.
Palace
Café — A
Brennan family establishment. It is located on
Canal Street, just a block or so from the Marriott.
Multiple excellent choices, but I personally recommend
the shrimp dishes, if you like the little fellows.
They have several dishes with flavorful sauces
that will tickle your tastes.
Mother’s
— A classic overstuffed po’boy sandwich.
Long lines, but if you want the experience of
having the queen of this tasty sandwich, you will
remember it for a long time. If you can get there
early, breakfast is one of the best in the city.
Located on Poydras Street about four blocks from
the convention center.
Brigtsen’s
— Cajun/ Creole; the setting is both elegant
and homey. The menu changes daily. Chef Brigtsen
does special things with rabbit. Give it a shot.
Clancy’s — Located in one of
the old New Orleans Uptown sections close to the
Mississippi River. It is a favorite of locals
and always delectable. The daily specials are
outstanding. One of my favorites is the crab special.
Excellent selection of multiple entrees, including
fowl and beef.
Upperline
— Creole; located in a small, charming house
in a residential Uptown area. Imaginative food
at reasonable prices with a very friendly staff.
Dick and Jenny’s — Located in
an out-of-the-way industrial-like area of town,
but do not let that keep you away. They do not
take reservations, so the wait can be long. The
food, however, is excellent. Definitely get the
oyster appetizer.
Bayona
— Described as international. One of the
top new restaurants in the city (meaning less
than 15 years old). Many outstanding dishes and
a lovely courtyard add to the experience. Flavorful
sweetbreads and grilled shrimp with cilantro sauce
are a few of the intriguing appetizers.
K-Paul’s
Louisiana Kitchen —
Paul Prudhomme ignited the Creole and Cajun revolution
in the early 1980s. His specialty is blackened
anything, so if you do not mind very spicy food,
you will definitely find it here. Remember, no
reservations, and there are always long lines.
Maybe that is why they serve gigantic portions
of whatever you order. Wear your most comfortable
walking and waiting shoes.
For completeness I should mention that there are
many ethnic establishments, and I will give a few
examples: Northern Italian — Andrea’s,
Bacco.
For an unusual Italian experience and one that you
will remember is a dinner at Mosca’s,
which is located on the west bank, across the river
on Interstate 90 west. You really need to contact
one of your New Orleans friends to get there. They
created the barbecued shrimp dish and the most unique
oyster dish known as “Oysters Mosca.”
If you never thought you could eat one of these
slimy critters, you will love this dish. It is not
a raw oyster dish but one that is baked in seasoned
bread crumbs and garlic. An unusual salad consists
of marinated vegetables and fresh lump crab meat
prepared daily.
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Shrimp
remoulade with fried green tomatos is a New
Orleans classic. Photo courtesy of NewOrleansOnline.com |
Other ethnic choices include Lemon Grass Café,
which is Vietnamese, Kung’s Dynasty
(Chinese), Kyoto (Japanese), Bangkok
Cuisine (Thai), Royal China (Chinese)
and Genghis Khan (Korean).
If you are interested in Middle Eastern food, i.e.,
Lebanese, I would highly recommend Byblos,
which has two locations, one on Metairie Road and
the other on Magazine Street. Each is no more than
15-20 minutes by cab. I would strongly recommend
the appetizer, Halloumi (fried cheese topped with
tomato and olive oil), and for dessert, the Ashta
(sweet cheese wrapped with phyllo dough topped with
simple syrup). I know these well since my parents
were both Lebanese, and my mother could cook anything
and make it tasty.
Hopefully this information will be of help during
your stay in New Orleans. This is an exciting year
for ASA as we are celebrating a century of advances
that have made for safer anesthesia care for our
patients. As Immediate Past President Roger W. Litwiller,
M.D., reminded us during his Presidential Address
in 2004: “ It’s all about the patient.”
So come enjoy the celebration, New Orleans charm
and, of course, its culinary delights. If I can
be of help, do not hesitate to contact me.
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Mack A. Thomas, M.D., is Staff Anesthesiologist,
Ochsner Clinic Foundation, and Professor of
Anesthesiology and Surgery, Louisiana State
University Health Sciences Center, New Orleans,
Louisiana. |
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